Overview
Reading all of the laudatory accounts by explorers, artists and writers that have visited these shores in centuries past, we wondered what was it about these islands that so enthralled its foreign visitors? Furthermore, we wondered, do these islands still hold that exotic feel we had only dreamed about? What we discovered is that though it may take a little exploring, this idealized beauty does still exist. While we wouldn't exactly call modern-day Tahiti a "Garden of Eden," we can imagine the inherent beauty Captain Cook encountered when he arrived here in the 18th century. Tahiti itself is a bit developed for our tastes; we prefer Bora Bora and Moorea for a true get-away.
French Polynesia is actually made up of 118 islands spread across nearly a million square miles of ocean. Dotting the South Pacific, and nearly equidistant from South America and Australia, the islands are divided into five groups: the Society Islands (including Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea), the Marquesas, the Australs, the Gambiers and the Tuamotus. Most of the islands are quite small, with only six larger than 62 square miles (100 sq km). Geographically, the islands are stunning, as they are either volcanic in origin with dramatic volcanic tips poking out of the ocean or coral atolls with giant lagoons inside. Being so isolated in the middle of the ocean, the islands' ecology developed without foreign influences for millennia. Though the culture has obviously undergone drastic changes, much of the natural ecosystems, particularly the marine life, remain in pristine condition.
Tahiti is the largest and most populated of the islands and being home to the international airport, is the major part-of-call. While the island has some beautiful black-sand beaches and attractions, we recommend visiting some of the other islands, particularly Moorea and Bora Bora. Moorea is Tahiti's sister island, located about ten miles northwest of Papeete, Tahiti's capital city. Its mountain ridges and lush vegetation remind us of a scene from Jurassic Park and the resorts on the island combine high-class comfort with natural exoticism. Bora Bora is further northwest and is home to mountains and a coral atoll. Author James Michener proclaimed Bora Bora the most beautiful island in the world; being quite an explorer himself, we take his words seriously and were by no means disappointed. With surreal mountain peaks, sugary white sandy beaches and multi-colored lagoons, these islands epitomize the South Pacific, just as we imagined. A visit to one of the coral atolls is a must as well. The Tuamotu Archipelago is 720 miles (1,159 km) long and though it was once home to France's nuclear tests, it is now renowned for its shipwrecks and black pearls, $100 million of which are exported annually. These atolls also happen to be the best place for snorkeling or scuba diving in all of Polynesia.
The locals here are a multi-racial mix of Polynesians descended from the Maori people, with European and Asian blood thrown in the mix. Renowned for their deep hospitality, they live with an effervescence conducive to smiling. Due to the French influence, they live with a joie de vivre and we must admit, this "joy of life" is pretty contagious. Though most speak French and Tahitian, English is spoken in hotels and restaurants and among most working with tourism. So come see what Herman Melville, Robert Louis Stevenson and Paul Gauguin were raving about. You can add our name to the list of admirers—we promise French Polynesia will not disappoint.
Tahiti Attractions
Bora Bora
When we arrived in Bora Bora the first time, we realized that this was the South Pacific spot we had dreamed of for years. The island is small, with only 19 miles (32km) of road, but its beaches and stunning natural beauty have turned it into an elite destination. Bora Bora is actually an island/atoll, which means it has two mountains in the center but is surrounded by a fabulous ringlet of islets and a scintillating lagoon. The vibe is laid-back and some of the premier resorts of the French Polynesia are located here.
Moorea
Located 12 miles (20 km) west of Tahiti, this heart-shaped island's natural beauty ranks it way ahead of Tahiti in our book. The geography itself is amazing—what was once a giant volcano reaching out of the sea still retains its volcanic rim, which is home to jagged peaks that harkens back images of dinosaurs and eras long gone. The deep blue lagoons, the swaying palms and the magnificent Mount Mauaroa (also called Bali Hai) create a postcard-like setting. There is no city on the island but plenty of accommodation options. The lagoons and coral reefs here make this island ideal for water sports.
Huahine
For those that want a more authentic feel for Polynesian culture, we recommend a visit to this quaint mountainous island, known for its unspoiled beauty and super-friendly locals. Besides the small village of Fare, the island is one of the most important architectural sites in Polynesia, with two marae temples that have been restored into museums. Huahine is actually made up of two islands which are adjoined by a narrow isthmus and encircled by a coral reef necklace. With only 5,500 inhabitants, this stunning island has plenty of smiles to go around.
Rangiroa
Part of the Tuamotu Atolls, Rangiroa is actually a series of thin islets which encloses the world's second largest lagoon. With a length of 43 miles (70 km) and a width of 16 miles (26 km), the entire island of Tahiti would fit inside this expansive lagoon. The islets that ring the lagoon reach no more than 10 feet in height and the waters within are chock full of marine life. Dolphins are commonly seen swimming near the entrances to the lagoon and the crystal-clear waters inside make for an optimal spot to drop anchor or snorkel for hours.
Papeete Municipal Market
Smack in the middle of Tahiti's capital is this central market, which buzzes with activity. Local fruits, vegetables and flowers are on display, as well as fish and meats—who can forget the hanging pig heads? It's best to visit early mornings, especially on Sunday when traders come from all over the island. Nearby is the newly-refurbished waterfront area, which is home to wonderful restaurants and seaside bars.
Paul Gauguin Museum and Harrison Smith Botanical Gardens
This museum honoring the famous French impressionist has some wonderful sculptures and paintings on display and also explains the artist's experiences while he lived here in Tahiti. Best of all, the museum is located within this exotic tropical garden founded by American Harrison Smith, who came here to create his own Garden of Eden. The 137 hectares are home to everything from hibiscus to bamboo to bananas. Don't miss the mape trees with their hanging roots.
Point Venus
On the tip of a peninsula with black sand beaches lies this famous spot where Captain Cook camped to observe the path of the Planet Venus on his first Tahitian visit in 1769. This is also where English Captain William Bligh touched ground as well. This is a great place to soak up a little history and reflect what these islands would be like if the explorers never arrived on these shores.
Faarumai Waterfalls
For those that aren't ready for the all-day hike to the dramatic 985 foot Fautaura Waterfall, this series of Tahitian cascades will suffice. On the way to the falls is the blowhole of Arahoho which cased a geyser-like fountain when the waves force water through a hole in the rocks. Vaimahuta is the first waterfall, but for those with more endurance, there are two more beyond.
Musée de Tahiti et Des Iles
The name may be in French, but don't worry—the exhibits are translated into English. In what is probably the best cultural museum in the South Pacific, exhibits here trace the geological history, the human migration to the islands and the ethnology of the native cultures. Set next to a beautiful lagoon and coconut grove with views of Moorea, this is the perfect spot for an introduction to Polynesian culture.
Arahorahu Marae
This marae is the only fully-restored temple on Tahiti and now functions as a museum, with displays explaining the traditional Polynesian religion. Restored over fifty years ago, this temple is often used to re-enact traditional ceremonies as well. There are plenty of other maraes on other islands as well, such as Huahine.
People and Culture
Ever since early explorers reported back to Europe with accounts of the rich local tradition, the outside world has been fascinated with Polynesian culture. We can imagine the interest sparked when Bougainville returned to France in the 17th century raving about the erotic style of dance in Tahiti. The letters of Paul Gauguin to his artist friends back in Europe reflect a similar fascination with the local beauty (and local beauties) centuries later… Unfortunately, the pagan religion and eroticism also caught the attention of the missionaries, who came over to spoil all the fun. The marae—which were the native open-air temples—were destroyed, religious carvings were chopped to pieces and the tattoos and dancing that had garnered so much attention were banned.
Christianity replaced the local religion and today Protestants and Roman Catholics are the major sects. But in recent years, Polynesian culture has experienced a rebirth, as many are turning back to the traditions of the past, forming cultural links with their Maohi heritage. Traditional dance, tamure, has returned to the forefront, accompanied by the old-fashioned instruments such as conch shells, nose flutes and huge paru and toere drums.
Another cultural artifact is the art of the tattoo, which can be traced back here to 1500 BC. In fact, the word itself originates in the Tahitian word tatau which means open wound. Tattoos were carried out in ceremonies and were used to symbolize tribal rank or denote a girl's sexual maturity. Traditionally, tattoos were made using bone and a pigment made from the black soot of burnt candlenut mixed with oil. Each tribe had different symbols that they tattooed to differentiate their group from the others, using designs reflecting natural patterns also found in traditional wood carvings.
Much of the local culture is being kept alive by the mamas, matriarchs who guard the cultural traditions of Polynesia. Artisans continue to produce the handicrafts of eras past, such as drums, sculptures, wood carvings and weaving. Surfing, which was the sport of kings, has never fallen from popularity here and the traditional tipairua outrigger canoe races are still celebrated in colorful races and local festivals. Our favorite time to take in the traditional culture is the annual Heiva festival in July, when Polynesians from all over convene in Tahiti to celebrate their rich cultural heritage.
The hospitality of the islanders here is heart-warming and may be attributable to a popular saying we learned here: "If you act like old friends when you first meet, you will soon find that you are." It's an interesting philosophy and judging from the smiles all around, it works pretty well.
History
Though these South Pacific islands carry the name of French Polynesia, their settlement predated the arrival of the French by a few thousand years. Although there still exists some debate over the original dates, the inhabitation of these islands was the result of a migratory flow from Southeast Asia around 4000 BC. It is assumed that Tonga, Samoa and the Marquesas Islands were settled first—around 1300 BC—and from there, successive waves of migrations sent colonization missions to islands like Tahiti around 300 AD. We do know from the similarities in language and culture that the natives of French Polynesia, as well as Hawaii, Easter Island and New Zealand—known collectively as the "Polynesian Triangle"—can be traced back to common ancestors. The islands developed societies based on fishing and farming, with authority coming from local chieftains of powerful families that had large fleets of outrigger canoes at their command. Native religions worshipped land-based deities and often included human sacrifice.
The first Europeans to arrive in these distant waters were explorers like Magellan, who passed through in 1521. In an interesting historical coincidence, British Captain Wallis landed on Tahiti and named the island after his financial sponsor (and monarch) King George III. Meanwhile, completely unaware of the British proclamation, French navigator Bougainville was on the other side of the island, claiming the land for the King of France. Though the initial European contact was not nearly as apocalyptic as it was in many parts of the Americas, tales of paradise on earth, "noble savages" and beautiful sexually-liberated women enchanted Europeans for centuries to come. Another event that called attention to the islands was the mutiny on the Bounty, when the British crew tossed their captain and superiors in a life boat and sought refuge on these tropical islands. Having encountered the beauty described, it's hard to blame them… Soon, these mutineers offered their services and weapons to the Pomares, one of the powerful families competing for power, that went on to create a dynasty throughout the region.
Over time, more Europeans arrived, many of them whalers and traders who also introduced European weapons, diseases and a penchant for prostitution—hardly the proudest cultural contributions… Meanwhile, the local culture—with its sexual liberation and pagan worship—was transformed by British Protestant missionaries. After their arrival in 1797, they quickly destroyed the traditional Polynesian culture, laying to waste the marae temples and outlawing traditional dance and music.
Meanwhile, an intense rivalry over the islands was developing between the French and English, but by 1842, the French had assumed control of Tahiti and Moorea, bringing down the Pomare Dynasty and ousting the queen. With the local monarchs as little more than figureheads, King Pomare V was forced to hand over the islands to France. The French Pacific Settlements, as the colony was called, consisted of a variety of Pacific islands. With the arrival of the twentieth century, the French imported workers from China to work the burgeoning cotton and vanilla plantations; mother-of-pearl was another lucrative trade in this epoch. Though the colony sent a thousand troops to fight the Germans in World War II, the islands' pivotal location convinced the Americans to occupy Bora Bora in order to slow the Japanese advance through the Pacific. Meanwhile, local soldiers that had served in the war under the French returned home with an enlightened world view and after fighting for freedom in Europe, they demanded more liberties at home. Under pressure, the French extended citizenship to all islanders and granted them representation in the French Assembly. The islands were renamed the Territory of French Polynesia in 1957 and were represented by a high commissioner appointed by France. The local government was allowed autonomy on socioeconomic policy, but matters of defense were restricted to the federal government. One issue that inflamed local opinion was the testing of atomic weapons on small atolls in the region starting in 1963. Under pressure from the local community and the international community as a whole, testing was moved underground but when President Jacques Chirac announced he would begin a new series of underground nuclear testing, riots broke out in Papeete and a year later the government admitted such testing had come to an end.
French Polynesia has attained more autonomy in recent years; one result of their increased self-governing powers is their ability to negotiate international agreements. But despite repeated calls for true independence—from islanders and French alike—the islands remain an overseas territory of France. Despite this political link, native culture has experienced a renaissance of sorts in recent years, as the Tahitian language is regaining popularity and the dances of the past—that were prohibited by the missionaries—are being embraced once again.
Nature
The natural make-up of each of the 118 islands in French Polynesia is dependent on its location, geological origin and size, as some are small low-lying coral atolls while others are volcanic islands with big mountains. As can be expected, these higher altitude regions have richer soil and more of a lush floral selection than the atolls. In these verdant hills the famous Tiare flowers grow wild. These sweet-smelling gardenias are the nation's national flower and the ones usually seen woven into decorative lei necklaces.
Any food buff will find the region's culinary history quite fascinating, as the only vegetation here before the 7th century had grown from seeds that had arrived from the sea, the wind or the birds. But with human settlement came a wide variety of foods from Polynesia, including yams, coconuts, bananas and breadfruit. Being here today, it's hard to imagine that these islands were once devoid of bananas or coconuts. These islands also mark the only place in Oceania where sweet potatoes are cultivated. Since the sweet potato is not found in Southeast Asia—where the settling Polynesians migrated from—there are many theories explaining their arrival in French Polynesia. Some argue they were transported by Polynesians coming from South America while others credit the Spanish that arrived in this area of the world around the turn of the sixteenth century. Whomever is responsible, we must admit the purple variety found here make for some very interesting french fries. The European missionaries introduced cotton, corn, citrus fruits, pineapples, coffee and vanilla.
Any study of French Polynesian flora would be incomplete without mentioning Edouard Raoul, a French botanist who brought over 1,500 varieties of plants to Tahiti. Ten years after his arrival, Raoul started donating seedlings to local farmers; many of the islands' present-day fruit trees are leftovers from his original cargo. Twenty years later in 1919, Harrison Smith, an American botanist followed in his footsteps, cultivating and distributing hundreds of plant species he had collected around the world. The wealth of fruits on the islands is due in part to these two pioneering botanists. Today, the most popular fruits are mangoes, papayas, avocados, bananas, apples, orange pineapple, grapefruit and its cousin, the pamplemousse.
In fact, much of the local plant life—such as bougainvillea—was introduced from abroad, which is also the case with all of the terrestrial animals. The Polynesians brought most of the animals, such as dogs and chickens, while Captain Cook's crew is responsible for the introduction of cattle and cats—not together of course. The only "wild" animals here are pigs that have escaped from their pens. There are over a hundred bird species found in the region, but the islands are so far from any land masses they only attract the longer-range migratory birds, such as terns. The real wealth of wildlife here resides in the surrounding seas. Being located in the "Cradle of Indo-Pacific Marine Life" these islands are home to a wide variety of marine habitats that have maintained their natural state for epochs of time. In fact, it was from this "cradle" that most of the marine life throughout the Pacific originated. Today, these waters are endowed with angelfish, bonito, stingray, sharks, parrotfish, mahimahi, jacks, harpfish, swordfish, eels, groupers, tuna and trumpetfish. Any visit to this underwater world will certainly drive the point home: these waters are teeming with life!
Climate and Weather
It's only fitting that French Polynsesia has such a paradisical climate—after all, the "Garden of Eden" tag wouldn't fit if it was always cold and overcast. The average annual temperature in these parts is a balmy 77°F (25°C). The weather here is quintessentially tropical, with a distinct wet and dry season. The rains arrive between November and April, which dump 75% of the annual rainfall in torrential storms. But, we still find the islands quite pleasant during these months as days often pass without rain and storms. Besides, when they do hit, they usually only last an hour or two.
During these months, temperatures remain warm, hovering between 80-86°F (27-30°C). The dry season, which lasts from May and October, is a bit cooler, due to prevailing winds that blow off the ocean. These winds, such as the maraamu from the southeast and the toerau from the northeast keep humidity low as well. In general, the higher islands are a little more humid than the atolls, which are more exposed to the cool trade winds. Cyclones are very rare in this region.
Map and Location
Location: Oceania, South Pacific; the archipelagoes lie about halfway between South America and Australia
Geographic coordinates: 15 00 S, 140 00 W
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -10
Area: 2,604 sq miles (4,167 sq km)
Length of coastline: 1,578 miles (2,525 km)
Elevation: Highest: Mont Orohena 7,350 feet (2,241 m); Lowest: Pacific Ocean
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